What didn’t happen and what happened in Yogyakarta and Surabaya

I had big plans for Yogyakarta and Surabaya, but turned out these two cities’ plans did not align with mine. It all started in Bandung – I arrived at the train station early in the morning, terribly happy that I was smart enough to book a hotel right near it. However, all the seats were already sold out for the day, the only remaining ones were premium – priced at 600,000 rupiahs each. I was not ready to pay that much, and quite frankly, that is very expensive for Indonesia. I asked around and took a Grab to the bus station, where I was quite quickly led to the cashier, who spoke 0 English, but quite happily sold me a ticket to Yogyakarta for 200,000 rupiahs (now we are talking!). It seemed to be leaving at 9:00 am – and as I was handing the 200,000 rupiahs, it was already 9:05, but nobody seemed to be in a rush. Hmmm, oh well.

My ticket said seat 2A, but there were almost no people, and the passengers who were there, sat wherever they wanted. 2 red flags, and we have not even left the bus station yet! However, I was under such a good impression from Indo subway and trains, that I suspected nothing wrong and chilled in my seat.

Long story short – a what had to be an 8-hour ride, ended up at 11:00 pm at night. 11:00 pm, Karl!

The drivers (2 of them) were stopping every 15 minutes for a smoke. One extremely long stop – perhaps the passengers were supposed to get food at that time. I do not know, I had to read the drivers’ minds. That’s all you have to know about Indo bus transportation.

I was terribly tired and mentally broken, when a Grab car driver told me to walk pass the bus station as Grab drivers are not allowed to come to the pickup point. I tried to explain to him that just 5 minutes ago I saw a car do exactly that – and even if they are not “allowed”, there is literally nobody, except me, my backpack, and my suitcase, along with the terrible mood, that I have to carry (mood being much heavier than the 14 kg suitcase). Forget it, I walked. The driver was sorry for me and overall seemed nice, but I was too grumpy and mad at him to sustain a worthy conversation.

Thankfully my check in at the hostel was quite smooth. It was in a quiet neighborhood, 3 minutes away from a touristy, busy street with bars and restaurants, but the streets leading to it were too narrow for the car – so again, I walked. On my way to the room, I met a nice-looking guy – a Canadian as well, as it turned out. He was not able to purchase a ticket to Bali and was stuck in Yogya for a couple of days. As many backpackers (me including), he did not use his phone (meaning Sim card) so was unable to receive the verification codes required to use the cc for online payments. Yes, 99% of the time the website does not ask for the verification, but that 1% can really mess you up (as it happened to Rob). He was beyond happy when he figured out I am from Canada, and that I use the third-party service (Viber) to make calls back home in situations like this (they can’t call me back, however; its one way). I borrowed him my phone, which delayed my date with the bed for 1 more hour, but seeing the relief on the person’s face told me it was worth it. He was on the line with this bank for quite some time, but fortunately they figured it out.

The next morning I rented a scooter for just 80,000 rupiahs (compared to 100,000 rupiahs in Bandung) and set out to see Borobudur temple and Mount Merapi (at least that was the plan). Once I got to what Google Maps labeled as Borobudur temple, I idled at the curbside, as there seemed to be just some fenced private property – no ticket stations or anything similar. A traffic regulator guy stopped me and signalled to wait – in a couple of minutes, another guy showed up and offered to show me the ticketing office for a small tip of 20,000 rupiahs. Which was fine, I shrugged, and we drove off.

At the ticketing station it turned out I had to buy a ticket online in advance. Not only that, but the tickets were also 450,000 rupiahs each and were all sold out for the day. But a guy apparently had it all caught up – and soon I had an employee of the temple on his day off and with my 450,000 rupiahs cash in a pocket drive me through the private fenced area that I saw in the beginning, walk me through the security right to the temple’s footsteps.

Amazing, isn’t it? I even followed some random tour and got some story about the place, which is the biggest Buddhist temple in the world and one of the 7 Wonders of the World…

There was another, similar and even more spectacular temple – the Prambanan Temple. I was tight on time and money, so decided to head back to the hotel, extend my stay and do Mount Merapi tomorrow.

Haha.

Mount Merapi has been closed for years, but you can see red lava at night from the nearby hills. “Could see” because all the tours were sold out. The receptionist at my hotel suggested I do the cave tour instead, which was nothing like the lava I wanted to see but still spectacular enough.

None of it was meant to be anyway, because at 1:00 am I woke up from terrible stomach pain, and from that moment on was rushing back and forth between my room and the washroom every 15 minutes. I crawled to the nearby café for some ginger tea next morning, and then my soul flew to the pharmacy next door and brought back some pain killers and medicine for the food poisoning.

I am still unsure what happened there, and what it was that I ate that hit me so bad. I have been having digestion problems for a couple of weeks at that point – mainly after the oily food, which I felt like my stomach could not digest. Maybe I did get some harmful bacteria and altogether it had catastrophic consequences. I spent the day just laying down in the common area. Thankfully it became easier by night, and I survived the train relatively painlessly. Also, thankfully I booked a separate room in Surabaya, and the following day was just ordering Grab food (Japanese chicken broth) all day long to my room, feeling dizzy and being afraid to even get up from the bed in case I fall – yes, that’s how bad it was. At night the situation worsened – I started having cramps, and pain killers stopped working (well, only for 30 minutes). I swallowed one tablet to win myself some time, grabbed passport, some underwear, socks, credit card, and phone – and booked a bike to take me to the nearest hospital.

They lay me down on a bed, an English-speaking doctor was asking me questions which seemed slightly… How do I put it? He seemed almost too attentive, but the questions he asked were a bit repetitive and did not appear to be “on point” – almost like he was not experienced enough. I knew however, that I needed some antibiotics and painkillers, which thankfully I ended up getting in the end, after some hospital-injected painkillers and IV for 4 hours. For some reason, my problem which almost killed me, was funny to them – I could clearly hear giggles and see smile on their faces when I said the “d” – word, and explained how dehydrated I was. I cannot really complain as whatever they did, worked, but I feel like it worked because its generally a no-fail way to help a patient, and not because of the extreme medical genius. To prove my point – I did not feel much better after the IV, just the pain was gone, however after taking the 2 antibiotic pills, I was weak, but absolutely, 100% healthy.

Using the clarity of mind, I went online to pay my cc bill – and to much surprise, saw some charges, in AUD, from something that looked like a government… Although I did not pay anything to the Australian government, especially in that amount. I called the number at the back of the card. The lady with voice full of unenthusiasm, complete indifference personally to me and life in general, said she would transfer me to the security department. The lady of the same vibe answered. I explained that I want to know the origin of those charges, and I am not sure its fraud – before I make that conclusion, I need to know where the charges are actually coming from. She re-asked me again the same security questions as the lady before (which would be a pointless security measure if I was a real scammer) and confirmed those were the governmental charges. After that, we somehow got into a situation where she insisted that I get a callback from their team to verify my identity, I tried to explain to her that I am overseas, and my phone number works one – way, but she would not even listen. She started interrupting me, repeating as a parrot – “give me the phone number to call you”. I repeated a couple of times there is no such phone number and its not possible, but she never gave me a chance to fully explain why, and without much further conversation, just hang up on me. I tried calling the number again, which I could tell was purposefully hung up before I could even say “hi”.

I was pissed off – and still am, as I am writing this blog a week later. I remember packing my suitcase for the airport and ordering a Grab car to take me there. Once I glanced at my phone to check when the driver was going to be at my place – just to see that the booking did not go through because the card was declined. I instantly knew what happened, but thankfully I had just the right amount of cash to pay for the ride – and I tried again to pay by my card in the airport at 7-11, deep in my heart hoping it was just the app issue. Nahhhhhh, girl.

Ah, forgot to mention. The day before I got a dozen of emails saying the airline bumped my flight and changed my complete itinerary – back and forth, from 2:40 pm to 5:40 pm. I gave up trying to figure out the mess and just showed up at the airport at 11:00 am. Turned out they also switched the airlines I was flying. I asked the check in to confirm the actual flight time for me, which did turn out to be the rescheduled 5:40 pm, and double checked if they provided food (since it’s a big delay) – and received a negative response. Oh well, I guess I was too sick for that anyway.

Kahem, back to the cc situation. I called my bank again, where a rep’s blank emotionless voice informed me that my credit card has been blocked for security measures, and I should await for a call back from their office for it to be unblocked. I calmly explained that I am 1) overseas, 2) have no phone number to call back, the one they have on file will simply not work, 3) their credit card is my only means of survival here, I do not have any cash left or any other credit card to pay. He just as indifferently said he would check at the back office, and after 5 seconds returned to inform me that they still cannot do anything. I realized I have to change the tactics and purposefully broke down in tears, repeating all the same things again, but with so much more drama.

He went to the “back office” again, then returned, asked me the same security questions as the two ladies a day prior, and, get ready – after verifying my identity, posed a question: “Now, what do you want me to do?”. I blurted out that I would love to finally have my credit card unblocked, and was informed that it had already been done, but he wanted to know about the charges that I reported the fraud for (at the time, his voice slowly transitioned from just indifferent to almost sound like he was barely standing me). I corrected him, saying that I never reported the fraud, I wanted to know the origin of the charges (his voice softened up slightly). At that point, I asked to not touch anything anymore, we called it a day, and I hang up.

Phew. I still remember it and shiver.

After I found my boarding gate, I had an hour of peace before a sweet Indonesian lady came to me to ask the tourist exit survey questions, which I gladly answered. She also informed me my flight was delayed one more hour, and at that point I was not even surprised. One hour later, another lady – this time, the airline employee – called me over to the baggage section, as they wanted to open my suitcase to check for something. They were calling my name, but I was watching a movie and did not hear them.

Okay, lets go.

I had to pass all the security again, leave my passport behind, until I was let in a room with my suitcase and asked if I brought in any oxygen. I said no and opened my suitcase. Turned out my hairspray, which seamlessly travelled with me on so many flights before, now looked like an oxygen tank. I was allowed to keep my spray and was let go…

…just to find out my flight was delayed for another two hours. They finally gave out food (one chicken McNugget, or whatever it was, which was too oily for my poor stomach anyway).

I had some lunch with the survey lady, which was 10 times better. As the Indonesian local, she, however, did not appreciate the airport’s chef’s culinary skills.

That being said, during the two-hour flight, which is too short for any food given out, several passengers did receive pre-ordered meals, including me (with one teeny teeny remark – I did not pre order anything). Call me a narcissist, but I could tell the guy at the check in liked me… I feel like after my food question he put it in for me. Otherwise, I have no other explanation. I am too broke to buy meals in the plane, especially for the short, 2-hour flights.

The flight was super late, but most passengers who seemed to be heading to London, were running around panicking, and I think, they still made it in time for their connecting flight. I had two other connecting flights, and I was way too late to panic and run around – at that point, I already missed everything I could.

It took the airline rep an hour to figure out what to do with me – when she finally gave a blessing in the form of a luxury 4-star hotel, with food and taxi both ways completely covered by the airline. The stay was amazing, and the buffet breakfast there… Mmmmm. And that’s, ladies and gentlemen, is how I have unexpectedly visited Singapore the second time.

The taxi picked me up next evening, and I headed to the Oceania, the land of more than 75% endemic creatures, scorching sun, and deserts.

My little Asian odyssey has officially come to its end.